Treestand Types, Techniques and Tips

Treestand Types, Techniques, and Tips

By Kurt Meyers

Treestand. The word is ingrained into today’s Whitetail hunter’s vocabulary as much as the words rifle or bow. Over the past thirty years, treestands have evolved from permanent wooden structures to portable high-tech platforms. Let’s take a look at the types of treestands and how to choose the one best suited for your hunting style.

Types of Stands

Climber-type

As with any stand, a climber has advantages and disadvantages. For those on a limited budget, the climber can be ideal since it can be used at many different stand locations because of its portability. Another advantage is that it can be used in areas where treesteps are not allowed. The defining thing about a climber treestand is that a straight limbless tree is needed. If you use a climber stand in the Ohio valley, eventually you will be forced to let the best tree for climbing determine where you put your stand…and the best tree for climbing is not necessarily the best tree for hunting. Finding a tree in a perfect spot that is also suitable for climbing does occasionally happen. When you find that situation a climber stand can be first-rate.

One nice feature to look for in climber stands is a leveling system that allows the hunter to level the stand while climbing. There’s nothing worse than reaching your hunting height and realizing that the stand is not level because it was not adjusted correctly while on the ground. Make sure you tether the climber section to the platform of the stand to avoid "separation anxiety" during your climb. Also, at all costs, avoid smooth bark trees and climbing during icy conditions. Under the right conditions, climber stands can be an excellent tool for the hunter. My favorite climber available today is made by TimberTall Treestands (www.timbertall.com).

Hang-on-type

The term "hang-on" thankfully does not refer to what you’ll have to do once in the stand, but rather how the stand is attached to the tree. Most hang-on stands today use a nylon web strap to attach to the tree. This is a better alternative than the obsolete steel chain since it is lighter in weight and allows for attaching the stand to larger diameter trees without the burden of a heavy chain and turnbuckle. Some stands today smartly use a strap that can be unhooked from either side of the stand. This allows an easier and safer installation, rather than trying to reach around to the far side of the tree to secure the strap. As long as the tree you choose is fairly straight ,you can use a hang-on stand; some stands even have a leveling feature so you can choose a slightly leaning tree (as long as you hang the stand on the high side of the tree trunk).

Some outstanding hang-on stands that I’ve used include those made by Gorilla, Lone Wolf and Rivers Edge.

Ladder-type

Ladder stands have one distinct advantage over other types of stands: they are the most easily accessible. You don’t have to be a gymnast to get into a ladder stand. I’m not a big ladder stand fan because they are heavy, are easily spotted by other hunters, as well as your quarry, and typically don’t get you high enough off of the ground. However, they are very stable and rarely make any noise.

Other types

One type of stand that I just started using this year doesn’t even have a platform. I’ll call this the "tree sling" type of stand. The brand I use is called Treesuit (www.treesuit.com). These types of stands are light-weight and tremendously portable. For me, they don’t provide enough comfort for an all-day sit, but I can use them comfortably for four or five hours. They are very quiet and the only visible profile is that of the hunter. I use tree steps to reach my hunting height, then install three or four steps around the tree at the height I want my feet. When I’m in the treesuit I can shoot 360 degrees. The main drawback with this type of stand is that after a few hours, the arches of my feet begin to ache from the tree steps. I’m considering adding some silent padding to the steps this year to alleviate this problem. This type of stand leaves the woods with you so there is no concern of theft, plus you can use most any tree.

What to look for in a treestand:

Like many things, selecting the right treestand for you is a balance of options.

Weight

Treestands range in weight from under ten pounds to over 30 pounds. If you have a long walk to your hunting spot, you’ll need a lightweight stand. I’ve finally committed to buying only aluminum stands with medium sized platforms. This keeps the weight down but provides a comfortably sized platform. Some hang-on stands are as light as six pounds but these typically have platforms too small for my personal taste. You also need to consider the weight of tree steps or a climbing stick to access the stand.

Noise

Treestands seem to have knack for groaning, squeaking and clanking at inopportune moments during transport, installation/ removal, and use. Certain stands are noisier than others by nature. For instance, you are always going to have some level of noise when using a climber-type stand, even if it is just the sound of tree bark cracking. Neoprene hockey-style tape or neoprene camo tape can help muffle the noise. Some ratchets on hang-on stands tend to be loud, but can be silenced by covering with a gloved hand during operation.

Another consideration is the type of platform. The two most common types today are grated platforms and slatted platforms. I’ve found that grated platforms and aggressive boot soles do not play well together. The aggressive tread slides down into the grating and inhibits quiet boot movement. On the other hand, if you hunt near a sandy area, like a creek bottom, the sand that gets stuck in your boot soles can sound like sandpaper against a slatted treestand platform. Since the space between slats in today’s stands is growing wider in an effort to reduce weight, another thing to look out for with slatted platforms is having the edge of your boot slip between the slats and loosing your balance.

Platform Size

Common sense tells us the smaller the platform size, the lighter the stand, but the comfort of the stand may be compromised if the platform is too small. Make sure that you have enough room to maneuver on the stand with all of your cold weather gear on. In my opinion wide platforms are a waste. I’d much rather have a narrow, long platform than a wide platform with not much length.

Comfort

Since you will spend many hours in your stand it must be comfortable to you. Everyone’s definition of comfort is different.

Seat comfort is obviously important. Seat height, padding and water resistance all add together to make up the comfort of a seat. Ideally, you should find a seat height that feels comfortable to you and choose stands that have seats near that height. Avoid stands with nylon seat material because when the temperature drops, the material becomes loud.

Many stands today are offering footrests and I find these to be a welcome accessory.

Stability

Treestands absolutely must be stable. I prefer hang-on stands that have a ratchet strap or cam-lock strap. Also, it is never a bad idea to add a second strap near the bottom of the stand for added stability. Climbing stands have evolved from steel V-bars and bands to the more stable, cable-type design. Some stands use a belt-type design which is also very stable.

Cost

Cost can play a major factor when buying a treestand. Post-season sales are the best bet for a hunter to maximize the value of his dollar.

Stealth

No hunter wants to be in a stand that is so conspicuous every deer in the area immediately looks up at it. The larger the profile a stand has, the higher a hunter has to place it in order to remain unseen. It is also good to have an inconspicuous stand to help avoid theft. Stands with larger profiles should be camouflaged with camo tape, paint, and branches.

Not only can a stand itself be conspicuous, but also the preparation of the area around the stand should minimize the evidence of human activity. When scouting, I usually spot most other hunters’ stands by first noticing the limbs and brush that have been removed. If you trim a limb, try and keep the cut angled so that the cut isn’t obvious from ground level. If a small tree is removed, cut it low to the ground and cover the stump with dirt and leaves. Drag the cut brush away from your spot. The fewer people who know where your stand is the less likely you will be a victim of theft.

When I leave my stand I try to fold the platform up to reduce the stand profile. This also helps to keep snow and ice off of the platform during cold weather.

Odds and Ends

A few other things to consider on the topic of treestands:

Weight-Shifting

To avoid noise when deer are nearby, a hunter should shift his weight as little as possible when maneuvering for a shot. The larger the weight shift, the better the chance for the stand to shift and squeak. If you need to move your feet to position yourself for the shot, reduce your weight on the ball of the foot that needs to move and then rotate your boot in the direction it needs to go. Alternate rotating heel and toe and "walk" your foot instead of lifting and placing.

Theft Protection

It is unfortunate that I even have to include this section, but the reality is,that many stands are stolen each year and we need to protect our investment. Step number one in theft protection was covered in the previous section: avoid detection. If a would-be thief doesn’t know a stand is there, he can’t steal it. Second, use a good steel cable with an integral lock to secure your stand (for hang-on stands, secure them in the upright position so others don’t hunt it in you absence). Lastly, permanently mark your name on the stand in a visible location. Keep in mind that if a thief wants your stand bad enough, he’ll get it. I’ve heard of thieves actually cutting the tree down to retrieve a stand.

Installation and Orientation

In my early years as a bowhunter, I missed numerous opportunities at bucks because I preferred to shoot from a seated position. If the animals didn’t walk on my "strong side" (the left side for right-handers), they were safe. Positioning the stand so that shots are more likely to occur on your strong side is always a good idea. Eventually I learned that being on my feet created more shot opportunities. Plus, in cold weather, I find that standing keeps me warmer.

When installing a stand I try to have my last treestep even with, or slightly above, the platform height. This allows an easier and thus safer entry and exit from the stand. I also install an additional step about three feet above the platform. This serves a dual purpose as a hand-hold to use during entry and exit and also as a hook for my backpack while I’m on stand. Treesteps are cheap, use as many as you need for a comfortable and safe climb.

Personal Safety

Never leave your treesteps installed more than a single season. I personally know two people who were severely injured when, in one case, a treestep pulled out of the tree and in the other case, a treestep broke. Both of these accidents were caused by leaving the steps installed for more than a single season. When steps are installed for prolonged periods, the wood begins to rot around the step threads. Combine this with corrosion of the steel and stress from the tree growing and you have a recipe for disaster. Don’t reuse treestep holes from year-to-year either; relocate them on the tree to provide maximum safety. Above all, use your common sense; if a treestep starts to look old, throw it away.

Full-body safety harnesses have quickly become a must-have item for the treestand hunter. No hunter should be without one. Years ago, before much was mentioned about safety belts, I recall using a climber stand on a cold, icy morning in the panhandle of West Virginia. I was using a safety belt as I climbed a Yellow Poplar (not a good choice of tree for climbing). As I reached my hunting height, the stand slipped on the icy, smooth bark and the ground began to get closer in a hurry. During my fall, I kept wondering why my safety belt wasn’t working. My decent stopped about six or seven feet from the ground. After I caught my breath, I realized what had happened. I was gripping the tree with my arms above the safety belt! As I fell, my arms just slid the belt down the tree with me. You can bet I learned from this experience.

Finally, make sure a family member or friend knows where you’ll be hunting. In this age of technology, take a cell phone along and keep it in your pocket (not your day pack, which may be left hanging in the tree). If you should happen to fall, the phone could be a lifesaver.