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Cold Weather Nutrition For Your Dog
By Max M. VanBuren, D.V.M.
The old adage "we are what we eat" certainly
applies to both man and beast.
It is with this thought in mind that every gun dog owner
should be extremely fussy about the quantity and quality of
nutrients his/her dog comsumes on a daily basis.
We all know that to achieve maximum performance in any
athlete training and genetics are crucial.
But nutrition is the key to making every segment
(eyesight, sense of smell, endurance, etc.) function at its
utmost ability. This maximum performance can only be achieved through dog
food that contains necessary nutrients which are well absorbed
through the gut wall to become readily available to the
bloodstream.
Although I have not said a thing about "cold weather
nutrition", I think we would be remiss to not think first
about the basics before we discuss special situations.
Above all else, nutrient availability to the bloodstream is
the single most important factor for any animal, regardless of
what you find on the label. Fortunately, here in the United States, our food packaging
standards guarantee the percentages of fats, proteins,
carbohydrates, etc. that are on the label.
The key here is how many of the nutrients in each category
can get to where they need to be.
There is a big difference.
Quality is the key here, not quantity.
How do you pick your dog food?
As a practicing veterinariA looking for a firm, hard, dry
stool - meaning that most nutrients were available, and properly
absorbed, before it came out of the dog's bowel.
Two: Look at your dog's hair coat.
Is it nice and shiny, soft and supple, or is it dry, dull
and rough? Hair coat condition is a great indication of overall
nutrition and is indicative of adequate water and fat-soluble
vitamins and the quality of protein.
Three: Ask the most knowledgeable, professional, unbiased
individual you know who understands the most about canine
physiology - your veterinarian.
Now, what about cold weather nutrition?
Energy, energy, energy is the primary message.
Fat makes the most energy, over 2 times per amount of dry
matter consumed as compared to carbohydrates and proteins. I recommend a minimum of 16% fat. My personal opinion is that we've made too big a deal out of
protein in the form of high-protein, performance dog food.
Again, it's the quality of protein, not the quantity that's
important for an adult dog. Whatever
extra protein a dog consumes over his basic need, is turned into
fat, makes his kidneys work harder, and is a much more expensive
way to add energy than fat.
What's the best way to get more energy into your hunting
dogs? Simple, just feed more.
How much more? Stand
back and look at your dog's ribs.
We want to just see a little rib.
If you are not sure, borrow your wife's bathroom scale;
weigh yourself and then pick up your dog and weigh both of you.
Do this at the beginning of hunting season.
If he was not too much overweight, he should not be on a
continual downward trend. If
he is gradually losing more than you think he should, keep upping
his food until you get him where you want him - or at least try.
If that doesn't work, grab a fecal sample and take both it
and your dog to your vet for a good physical, a fecal parasite
evaluation, and a little blood work.
This will determine whether or not you have a medical
problem.
The most important nutrient is water.
We often take water quality for granted, but clean, fresh
water should be available 24 hours a day.
Remember when you are hunting on frozen ground, in salt
marshes, or semi-arid, drought desert-like conditions, to take
plenty of fresh water along. The amount of water a dog drinks per day is based primarily
on his dry matter consumption.
Dogs under a year of age have the highest dry matter
requirements per pound of body weight that at any other time in
his life. So, if
you're taking a pup or a young dog out in the field or on a boat,
take plenty of extra food and water if necessary.
Good hunting with your four-legged hunting partner.
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